Simplicity 8339 is a pattern for knit sports bras with double strap or racerback styles. You can also choose between a band with encased elastic and a bra hook and eye closure or exposed elastic band. The bra is fully lined with self fabric binding. I made the double strap option with exposed elastic band (view C).
Simplicity recommends a stretch fabric with 50-60% stretch selvage to selvage: activewear knits, jersey spandex (lycra) blends and stretch lace. The fabric I used were scraps of organic cotton lycra jersey (95% cotton, 5% lycra) that had the recommended stretch. This gave a great fit but not a lot of support so if you’re looking for a proper sports bra I’d choose a higher lycra content or line with power mesh.
There are individual pattern pieces included for cup sizes A through G for every band size from 30 to 44 so that’s a LOT of pieces! The labelling on the pieces is a bit confusing so it takes a little time gathering the ones you need.
Instructions are included to help you determine your cup and band sizes but be warned these most likely won’t match your ready to wear (RTW) size. The instructions use your under bust measurement as your band size and the difference between your under bust and full bust to determine your cup size with 1″ being an A cup, 2″ being a B cup etc.
I purchased this pattern because I wear a RTW 32C (and therefore thought I was included in their sizes) but by their chart I am a 28DD/E! Luckily using the sister size 30D worked for me. For reference my measurements are 28.5″ under bust, 33.5″ full bust and 32″ over bust.
I found the instructions straight forward and easy to follow although I didn’t enjoy sewing on the slippery knit binding. When I make this again (and I will!) I’d like to try using fold over elastic (FOE) instead. Also, the two edges of the binding where it meets the elastic at the back keyhole irritates me a tiny bit so I’d like to find a way to fix that.
I sewed the princess seams on my overlocker and the binding and elastic on with my standard machine. I used a simple zigzag for the binding and a 3-step zigzag for the band. You could easily sew the main seams with your sewing machine too – just use a stretch stitch or zigzag. The instructions for view C have you sew the band on by overlapping the bottom edge of the bra and I highly recommend drawing a line on the bra that you can align the elastic to otherwise you will be sewing blind.
This has been my most successful bra make yet! It’s really comfortable and it doesn’t squash me flat. I wasn’t sure about the non adjustable straps but you do try the bra on before committing to the length and I’m happy with the length I chose. I imagine it might be quite the effort to get it on with no closure if you have large breasts or limited mobility but it’s fine for me. I will definitely be making another one!